Carmel-by-the-Sea & Big Sur: A Luxurious California Escape

There’s a reason travelers return again and again to California’s central coast. With its dramatic cliffside views, moody cypress trees, and effortlessly charming villages, Carmel and Big Sur offer the kind of coastal escape that feels both grounding and indulgent. I visited this past March — just after the winter rains, when the coast was lush and uncrowded — and am finally sitting down to share the full itinerary, favorite finds, and a few things I’ll make sure to do next time.

Whether you’re planning a romantic long weekend, a solo recharge trip, or

a wine-and-wellness getaway, here’s everything you need to know.

Getting There

Fly into San Jose (SJC) or San Francisco (SFO). I flew into San Jose — it’s smaller, calmer, and less than a 90-minute drive to Carmel. If you land in San Francisco, expect closer to 2.5 hours depending on traffic — but with scenic stretches that make the time fly. There are occasional flights into Monterrey (MRY) as well that are worth checking into.

Optional Stops en Route:

• Monterey – Famous for its aquarium, Cannery Row, and Fisherman’s Wharf. A great place to stretch your legs.

• Pacific Grove – We stopped for coffee and some casual window shopping. If you're a book lover, check out Bookworks — a cozy indie shop tucked into the downtown stretch.

Where We Stayed: The Stilwell Hotel

Located just steps from downtown Carmel-by-the-Sea, The Stilwell Hotel was the perfect mix of style and ease. Think transitional design, clean lines, and thoughtful details — all within walking distance of the town’s best dining and tasting rooms. It’s the only place I want to stay when I return.

What We Loved:

• On-site parking (a major win in Carmel!)

• Comfortable rooms — mine was on the second floor and easy to access, but they do offer accessible options if stairs are a concern

• Delicious breakfast included daily

• Wine & cocktails by the fire in the evening — a perfect way to wind down

It’s the kind of place where you settle in fast — quiet, warm, and beautifully understated.

Where We Ate

Carmel may be a small town, but its food scene punches well above its weight. From cozy alleys with tucked-away trattorias to scenic spots with wine pairings and ocean air — every meal felt like part of the experience.

La Bicyclette — ★★★★★

Lunch | Cozy, European-inspired bistro

We started with the soup of the day, shared a pizza (wood-fired perfection), and split a bottle of wine. The ambiance is rustic yet polished — just right for a slow afternoon lunch. This will be a repeat restaurant next time I'm in Carmel.

Il Tegamino — ★★★★★

Dinner | Tucked-away Italian spot

This was my favorite dinner of the trip. Dimly lit, romantic, and hidden down an alley. Authentic flavors, warm staff, and the perfect cozy vibe. Goes without saying, this will be on the priority list for a future trip.

Toro — ★★★★☆

Lunch + Dinner | Modern sushi

We first visited Toro on a food tour — an artful tasting flight that wowed us. We came back for dinner the same night. Still solid, but lunch was the stronger experience.

Nicolas — ★★★☆☆

Dinner | Artistic, but uneven

Beautiful atmosphere and unique menu, but service was slow and it didn’t quite live up to expectations. Maybe best for cocktails and an appetizer.

Stationaery — ★★★☆☆

Breakfast | Minimalist & modern

My meal was satisfying, but others in our group found it average. A clean, quiet option if you like pared-down breakfasts.

The Star Bar at Vesuvio — ★★★★☆

Drinks & appetizers | Rooftop available

A lovely place for pre-dinner cocktails — try the rooftop patio if the weather allows.

Carmel Food Tour Highlights — ★★★★☆

To learn more about the charming town and maximize your opportunity to try a lot of what Carmel has to offer, try a food tour. If you know me, you know that generally I recommend food tours, and this one is a good one with a lot of variety and a chance to learn more about the city's history and see come things you might not have otherwise realized where there, like The Pilgrim's Way Books.

• Patisserie Boissiere – French onion soup & wine

  

• Café Carmel – Flaky, warm quiche

  

• The Nut House – Unlimited tastings.

  

• Toro – Sushi + wine tasting. The owners of the restaurant shared a lot of details about wine and the sushi and were a fun couple to lead us through the tastings.

  

• Dutch Door Donuts – Small-batch, rich donuts

What We Did

Dog-watching + Village Wandering

Carmel is full of pups and personality. We strolled through side streets, admired the storybook cottages, and made our way down to the beach on foot — stopping to photograph unique architecture and soak in the calm.

Milk bottle building

17-Mile Drive

Worth the entry fee. We stopped at the Lone Cypress, admired the iconic golf course views, and daydreamed over oceanside homes.

Big Sur Day Trip Highlights

No matter how many times I’ve seen photos of Big Sur, nothing prepares you for the real thing. We started with a delicious pastry and coffee from Carmel Bakery.

Giant pastries from Carmel Bakery

We headed out of town and drove down slowly, taking time to savor the coast and stopping at:

• Bixby Bridge – A must. Pull over for photos from the north turnout. Absolutely breathtaking.

  

• Calla Lily Valley – In bloom during March; quiet and peaceful walk along a hidden creek.

  

  

• The Phoenix Shop – A curated boutique + gallery with mountain views. There were books, art, clothing, and more.

• Nepenthe - This iconic Big Sur restaurant is more about the ocean vistas than the food — but the burger and fries were very good. Go for the view, stay for a glass of wine and a relaxed lunch. I suggest getting there a bit before they open, go to put your name on the waitlist and spend some time looking around and capture pictures while it’s not crowded.

Wine and Cocktails in Carmel

We stuck to village tasting rooms this trip, all walkable and worth exploring:

• Windy Oaks – Small and serene; a great starter spot

• De Tierra Vineyards – Energetic and social

• Barmel Supper Club – Great for cocktails 

  

  

  

Next Time: What’s Still on My List

• The Refuge Spa – A thermal spa experience with hot/cold plunge pools, steam rooms, and forested relaxation areas. I’ve heard it’s quiet, restorative, and ideal for a spa day.

• Cocktails at Pebble Beach – I’d love to catch golden hour at The Bench or Stillwater Bar, drink in hand, overlooking the famous 18th green.

• More shopping time – I was able to check out a few, but the boutiques deserve their own afternoon.

• Grasing’s Restaurant – Local favorite I’ll make sure to try

• McWay Falls – I’ll definitely loop back for this one

• Carmel Valley – While the village tasting rooms are lovely, I’d love to head inland next time for a full afternoon of vineyard-hopping.

Insider Tips

• March was a great time to visit — Fewer crowds, lush scenery, and cozy weather perfect for fireside evenings.

• Book hotels and restaurants early – Especially for anything walkable in Carmel

• Pack for layering – Think long sleeve shirts, light sweaters, vests, and a rain coat

• Don’t overschedule — The charm here is in wandering: down side streets, into galleries and shops from one wine tasting room to the next.

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I'm dreaming of going back to this magical place very soon!